My youngest
son is into Warhammer. Apparently the
hobby isn’t as popular in the US, and recently he overheard one American gamer
explaining to another, how Warhammer outlets are: ‘In every town in the UK,
they’re like Starbucks over there. ‘.
A game of Warhammer in progress |
When my son
told me this I laughed. The idea seemed absurd. Then I realised how true it is,
that there is a Warhammer shop in pretty much every major town. But also, what does that say about the popularity of Starbucks? Which leads us
neatly onto the topic of today’s blog post – coffee shops, or more precisely –
selling coffee.
If you’ve
read my post on the EHFA blog about an enterprising Victorian photographer, you
will know my current bedtime reading is Henry Mayhew’s book, ‘London Labour and
the London Poor’. First published in volumes during 1851-2, his great work
chronicles everyday life as he saw it around him on London streets. Which leads
me back to coffee selling.
A photograph of a typical street vendor selling coffee Is that Queen Victoria herself on the far left? |
Mayhew writes
evocatively about the barrows that popped up on street corners, selling tea and
coffee to other traders, market goers, and the general public. But this was a
relatively recent innovation, because 20 years previously the beverage on sale
was ‘saloop’. This prompted a cross reference with a dictionary to find saloop
was a hot drink made from sassafras with added milk and sugar. Of course, then
I had to find out what sassafras is – turns out it’s an evergreen tree that
likes hot humid conditions and looks a bit like laurel but with larger leaves.
Anyhow,
inexplicably (or perhaps because tea and coffee taste nicer, and perhaps was
being taxed less so was more affordable) saloop went out of fashion around
about the time Victoria ascended to the throne, and beverages we still
recognize today took over.
The illustration of a coffee seller taken from Henry Mayhew's book. Note the lamp for night-time illumination |
Mayhew
records how these coffee vendors enhanced their profits by blending coffee
beans with cheaper additives such as chicory, or cheaper still – baked carrots
or saccharin root. Apparently 4,000 – 5,000 tons of chicory was grown each
year, the majority of which all went to coffee adulteration.
The people
running the stalls were often cabmen, policemen, artisans, or labourers not
able to earn a living in the trade which they were apprenticed in. Some opened
their stalls at midnight, specifically to cater for the ‘night-life’. The most
lucrative pitch was said to be on the corner of Duke Street and Oxford Street,
in London, with the best trade being done on market days.
A final
thought. I wonder what the Victorians drank their street-bought coffee in?
Cat coffee art |
Presumably there were no disposable paper cups, and I wouldn’t have thought you’d
take a mug wherever you went. This must mean the sellers leant out cups…hmmm…doesn’t
sound terribly hygienic.